The monster wave approached. It had to be 20 or 30 feet. Undaunted, I paddled forward. Well, all right, maybe it’s more like 2 or 3 feet. But does size really matter? I jumped onto the board, turned ...
Slender and shirtless, with dark shades and a golden tan, Justin Smith is an unusual sight — a bona fide surfer dude in board shorts and flip flops in Paola, Kan. Music plays as a warm breeze tousles ...
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